1. The characteristics of hair
● Dr. Joo has been working on hydrolyzing human hair to create amino acids for 30 years.
● Science advanced dramatically during the 20th and 21th century, but people's hair is getting worse.
● Korean people have a round cross-section and relatively thick hair. This means that there are a lot of -S-S- bonds(disulfide bonds) in the hair.
● However, the hair cuticle is relatively loose, softening can cause severe damage to the hair.
● Hair is inanimate. The four major chemical bonds in hair are ①peptide bonds ②disulfide bonds ③ionic bonds and ④hydrogen bonds.
● Alkali, reducing agents, and oxidizing agents cause severe damage to hair.
● Hair is composed of keratin protein, and the reason hair becomes wavy with a curling iron is due to heat denaturation.
● The basic principle of perm is to partially disrupt the -S-S-bonds in hair keratin with a reducing agent, and rebuild them with an oxidizing agent to create waves in the hair.
● -S-S- bonds have the characteristic of reversible reactions, and through this, they achieve chemical equilibrium.
● After perm, side reactions such as lanthionine reaction and SR reaction occur.
● The speed of the chemical reaction of perm is proportional to the square of the temperature difference.
2. BONPLEX Clinic Perm for Normal Hair (Cysteamine-Free base)
● If you apply thioglycolate and heat the hair, the hair will melt, but if you apply cysteamine hydrochloride and heat the hair, the hair will crumble.
● Dr. Joo developed the Cysteamine-Free reducing agent and the hair can be heated immediately after applying it without going through a softening process.
● Cysteamine-Free reducing agent makes a non-softening direct perm possible.
● The pH of cysteamine hydrochloride is 3.0, and the reducing power varies depending on the pH. The reducing power is the highest when the pH is 8-9.
● Therefore, you should adjust the pH by adding alkaline ammonia or monoethanolamine if you use thioglycolate or cysteamine hydrochloride reducing agents.
● If you add alkali, ① cysteamine + ② monoethanolamine hydrochloride will be generated after a chemical reaction, and the pH will be around 9.0.
● If you use cysteamine hydrochloride, salt will inevitably be added to the perm agent. Considering the principle of osmotic pressure, the damage that the perm agent causes to the hair is severe.
● Bonplex's Cysteamine-Free base reducing agent has already removed the hydrochloride through electrolysis. The molecular formula has HS, which shows reducing power, and NH2, which shows alkaline characteristic. Cysteamine-Free base reducing agent itself has a pH of 9, so there is no need to add alkali separately. Of course, this is a reducing agent for healthy hair.
● The odors will be reduced accordingly.
3. BONPLEX Clinic Perm for Damaged Hair (Cysteamine Thioglycolate)
● Because damaged hair lacks -S-S- bonds, heat denaturation is more important than reducing agent for damaged hair.
● BONPLEX Clinic Perm for Damaged Hair(pH4.5) reducing agent contains cysteamine thioglycolate.
● The ingredient is a combination of cysteamine and thioglycolic acid.
● The isoelectric point of hair is 4.5-5.0, and BONPLEX Clinic Perm for Damaged Hair(pH4.5) reducing agent is a reducing agent that is adjusted to this pH.
● At the isoelectric point, hair has the characteristic of being highly resistant to external reactions. Therefore, it means that the hair can be given the most heat at that pH.
● Depending on the degree of hair damage, hair stylist can mix and use this two reducing agents: BONPLEX Clinic Perm for Normal Hair (pH9.5) and Damaged Hair(pH4.5).
● After neutralization, some -S-S- bonds are not repaired, and a substance called cysteine acid(SO3H) is produced.
● SH perm agent is the strongest reducing agent among Bonplex perm agents.
● For perming and dyeing, or bleaching, the neutralizer is more important than the reducing agent.
● The dimaleate ingredients contained in the neutralizer significantly suppresses the cysteic acid which is producted by hydrogen peroxide.
● Likewise, a good neutralizer should be used in hair dye to increase the durability and make hair color more vivid.
4. About Dimaleate Substance
● The PLEX material is what rebuilds the broken disulfide bonds.
● Dimaleate has the characteristic of a double bond, which reacts well with other substances.
● Bonplex neutralizer is effective in suppressing the production of cysteine acid.
● The chemical reaction in which -SR-SR- is rebuilded is called the Michael reaction.
● Bonplex 1,3 is relatively cheap and has a fast reaction speed.
● Bonplex I has hydrophobic character slightly(means it dissolves well in oil), so it is added to BONPLEX shampoo and treatment.
● The chemical structure of Bonplex I contains a benzene ring.
● In BONPLEX C, one more -S-S- was added in the middle.
● Bonplex C has a strong ability to rebuild the hair bonds, so the hair becomes stiff.
● The reason hair is easy to comb is because the cuticles are aligned in one direction.
5. The Advanteges of BONPLEX Hair Dye
● The most important thing in dyeing is saturation.
● Dyeing agents contain oxidized dyes. This means that the color appears after oxidation.
● When hydrogen peroxide is added, it oxidizes and the color appears.
● Since hair dyes go into the cuticle, the key is to increase the molecular weight of them.
● The substance of Bonplex neutralizer causes a polymerization reaction.
● Since Dimaleate has the characteristic of a double bond, the dye molecules increase accordingly, so the color comes out vividly and lasts longer time.
● -S-is an unshared electron pair, so it affects polymerization. Therefore, if you use Bonplex C, the color comes out more vividly.
● When BONPLEX neutralizer is used, the molecular weight of the dye increases due to the dimaleate substance, which reduces fading and extends the dyeing period.
● BONPLEX's 6% and 9% oxidizers have a significant effect of suppressing the production of cysteine acid. They are much less irritating than other oxidizers.
For more information, please visit BONPLEX youtube channel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeRfhqepjHQ&t=3s
